Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Click here to download the pattern file from google docs.
Material: Made for knits, 25% minimum stretch. Photographed item is from a cotton interlock.
Sizing: Size 40 european approximately, M/L, bust approximately 36" at full bust
Seam allowances: SA are noted on the pattern at 1/2". The sewing lines are also noted in case you prefer to cut off the SA or change them.
Yardage requirements: Approximately 1-1/2 yds of 60" wide
1. One 23-24" piece of coordinating or contrasting trim for lower front. I used cotton trim in the sample. If using nonstretch trim, preshrink. I used 1 inch width.
2. One 6-8" piece stretch lace for the keyhole neck opening.
1. Cut out front and back on fold, sleeve x2. In addition you need to cut approximately 52" of 1" self binding for the neckline plus tie extensions.
2. Turn up 1/2 inch hem allowance on the shirt front piece but do not sew yet.
3. Measure your front bottom trim and place right side of trim to wrong side of shirt front, leaving trim extending below front piece. If you are using 1" trim, you can align the raw edges together and it will come out right (i.e., back piece is 1/2" longer than front). If using wider or narrower, you will need to adjust it so that the front and back will meet (see #11 below).
4. Stitch front hem and trim on in one pass, using double needle or coverstitch.
5. Hem back piece and sleeve bottoms with 1" hem, using coverstitch or double needle, to match front hem.
6. Pin stretch trim to keyhole neckline area, stretching it to fit.
7. Sew the lace neckline trim on, sewing close to the inner edge of the trim piece.
8. Cut off excess neckline fabric behind the lace trim, such that the lace trim has no fabric behind it, being careful not to cut through the lace.
9. Sew front of shirt to back of shirt at shoulders, right sides together. Topstitch if desired.
10. Sew each sleeve to respective side of the body of shirt, right sides together. Topstitch if desired.
11. Sew sleeve seam, underarm and side seams in one continuous stitch line. Be sure to catch the edge of the lace trim at the front bottom into the stitching.
12. Fold the seam allowances at bottom hem and sleeve hem towards the back and tack down with a small stitch line parallel to the seam (see photos). This is for comfort and appearance.
13. Pin the 1" self-binding to the neckline, placing midpoint of the binding at center back. Stitch in place, right side of binding to right side of neckline.
14. Press the binding upwards, away from the top. Fold in the raw edge of the binding towards the center and press.
15. Fold the binding to the back. Then topstitch on the front, securing the binding. Sew all the way down the ties, tucking in the raw edges at the end of the ties to give a finished look at the end of the ties.
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Friday, September 25, 2009
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Monday, September 14, 2009
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Start with your pattern and sew the neckline, armhole, etc., together so you have it done except the edge finish. If your pattern contains seam allowances on those edges, go ahead and trim off the seam allowance on the edge.
Once the edge no longer has a seam allowance included, take your stretch lace and align the lace over the top of the edge, matching the raw edge of the garment and the outer edge of the lace. Then sew the inner edge of the lace, using a stretchy stitch. I like to use a 3-step zigzag. Use thread to coordinate with your lace color.
Now, you need to trim off the excess fabric underneath the lace you sewed on. Trim it very very close to your seam line that attached the lace to the garment.
At this time you need to go back to where the lace formed the circle and close the circle completely. [Don't do it before this time unless you first fold back the garment fabric or else your garment fabric will be in the seam and can't be trimmed away.] I stitch over the edge of it where it overlaps, again with a 3-step zigzag (just my preference), perpendicular to the original stitching line. Now, the lace is completely joined in a circle.
All done! Easier than binding for sure. This makes a great neckline, armhole, waistband, etc.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Sunday, August 16, 2009
For those of you interested in the complete review of this pattern, I did a review at Patternreview, here. Definitely a keeper of a pattern for us.
Friday, August 14, 2009
I'm really pretty happy with the results of this one. The fabric is a stretch gingham from my fabric stash from years and years ago. This is the first time I have created a front button placket. That went pretty well despite some head scratching on Ottobre's very brief instructions there. LOL I don't think right now I have a single other button front blouse in my closet so I'm happy to own one again! At least until the kids put a nice stain on me. But maybe in a gingham it won't show as much? One can hope.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Monday, July 27, 2009
Monday, June 29, 2009
I was working on Kwik Sew 2627, which I got from Print Sew. Currently, it is a free download! That is about the only plus from my perspective. Don't get me wrong; I typically LOVE Kwik Sew patterns. I looked at this and thought it may be a nice easy summer dress. I was a tad concerned it would look like a shapeless sack on me, so I carefully chose view C, with the ties, and did my usual size for the top, grading up slightly for the skirt as I'm a pear shape. I shortened it as even the knee length version was going to be calf length on me.
Well, the size that usually fits great was too wide, way too wide, in the shoulder. I had already test fitted the back pieces, usually my problem, and did an adjustment so that the back neck would not gape. That went great. It was everything else that didn't look good. The fit honestly wasn't terrible at the end except for the neckline, but it just did not suit me at all. So into the trashcan and on with the next project. I think I'm going to do something for Lily or the boys. Their stuff usually fits nicely and looks good on them. Much more satisfying than this.
So, my opinion? The pattern is free right now if you are willing to print it. It runs a tad shapeless so if you are trying to accent a waist, do the tie version at least. For taller people or more of a straight up and down bodytype, it would probably suit you (but then most things probably do!). I'm really not out too much at least with a free pattern and some fabric I have had for years. So all is not lost, but discouraging all the same.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
I did a full review at Pattern Review, but in brief the changes I made to the pattern were to skip the tulle underskirt and only line the bodice instead of the whole dress. Just the dress alone is over a yard of fabric, and I felt 2 yards of weight on her tiny little self was too much.
I'll definitely be making this dress again though, so cute with the full skirt.
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Noah was with me at the Joann's last week and was browsing the pattern book when he came across the patterns for stuffed toys. Those of course caught his attention, and he requested one. After much deliberation, he chose a little freebie idea sheet for a fleece monster. He had specific criteria though:
1. NOT Scary
2. No mouth
3. "Happy eyes"
5. With arms and legs "to hug me"
So I modified the pattern at bit and here is what he got. It is far from perfect. I love to sew but crafty little critters are not my forte, not at all. I refused to buy fleece for this thing so he is made from the arm of a repurposed sweater. His arms and legs are felt instead of fleece. Noah loves him no matter how ugly he is.
Monday, June 1, 2009
Top is baby dress, design #1 of 3/07, worn as a tunic. I used a sz 68 lengthened 1-1/2 inches (she wears a 74-80 typically). I replaced the ribbons with snaps. I only had enough fabric with the roses for the front and one part of the back, so I did the sleeves in pink to tie in the pink half of the back. Then I decided to do the pants to match and it came together. For once I really like my "oops" in fabric shortage and my workaround. LOL
The pants are #3 of 3/2007, "pants with frills" minus the frills and pockets. I did a sz 86 hips and 74 length, but they are still too short in the rise for her with her cloth diapers. That is a common problem for us, which is why I sized up, but I didn't add quite enough. That's okay; it's not visible under her tunic and she seems to think they are comfortable!
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
So, a while back I did Ottobre pants, slim fits, but they were still too large for Zach. I eventually set them aside for a growth spurt. He has had said growth spurt and they fit okay in length and better in hip now ... but still much too large in the waist.
So original pants are here, but larger actually than they appeared, i.e., they fell down when he walked:
Thanks to the Ottobre English yahoo group, I was given verbal instructions on how to fit them, by inserting buttonhole elastic into the waistband. This would have been a lot easier had I done this in the first place by the way. But, they were already created and he wanted to be able to wear them, so I did the retrofit. Sorry the pictures are crummy but hopefully will be helpful to you all who need to do this for any of your tall skinny kids. :)
It is very very handy if you have an existing pair of pants with buttonhole elastic in them to refer to on placement. This is not essential, but it is helpful. Take the pair you need to modify and look on the inside of the waistband. Choose a spot for the opening for the elastic to go in. A good place for this is usually just past the side seams toward the front so that it would rest approximately between the side seam and the center front. There is going to be a button just past it so try to pick the place you think would be most comfortable on wearing. On the pants in the photo, I have my thumb at approximately that place. You can see the side seam in the photo:
Now get your seam ripper. Very carefully cut a vertical slit in the only the inner waistband at the site chosen above. Be careful not to cut the outer waistband (the part you see on the outside when the pants are being worn). The slit needs to be ideally the width of your buttonhole elastic.
In my pants example, the fabric is corduroy. It will fray badly if left just cut. If your pant fabric will not fray, you may be able to insert the elastic now. Most fabrics though you will need to do a handsewn buttonhole. Note you can probably sew the buttonhole first and then cut it open like you would on a machine; however, it is a little easier to cut first in this instance for me so I could be careful not to catch the outer waistband in my sewing. Anyhow, sew the buttonhole by hand. I did the extra step of adding Fray Check on the raw edges to help stop the raveling. I started at one end with tacks across the opening to reinforce the ends, down one side, wide across the buttom and back up the other side. Most anyone will end up with a prettier result than me because I really am bad at handsewing. LOL.
Starting the buttonhole sewing:
Do the buttonhole on both sides.
Now you need to sew a button on each side just a little ways in front of each hole. Mine are 1 inch from the buttonhole. Choose a button that comfortably goes through the holes in your buttonhole elastic but do not allow it to slip back through.
All that is left to do now is thread your buttonhole elastic into the casing. Cut a length of elastic the distance from one button to the other along the back waistband. The object is that if it were inside the waistband unstretched there would be no reduction in the waistband; the waistband would be the original length (so if your child grows you are all set!). Feed it through one end into your buttonhole created. I use a bodkin for it but a safety pin works well too. Hook one end on one button, pull it through and hook the other end on the other button. Adjust it by pulling tighter or loosening to fit your child. Put the button through the appropriate hole.
Enjoy the fact the pants no longer fall down!
Monday, April 20, 2009
This is from Ottobre 1/2009 #7 the "kukkopilli" tunic top. I added the large flower applique from scrap fabrics. The design is from 100 Best Full-Size Quilt Blocks & Borders
The flower fabric is from Joanns, a cotton, from a while ago. The mint green is also a cotton, a nicer quality from a quilt shop. These cottons are perfect for a hot summer day, so breezy and light.
For the back closure, I replaced the buttons suggested with plastic resin snaps applied with my KAM press.
She has on bloomers underneath, in a mint green to match, made from a different pattern.
It had gotten really cluttered and messy. The desk and bookcase were residuals from when it really was an office, when I worked at home. We had slowly migrated it more to a sewing space, keeping the computers and desks in here as well. I really needed more space for my sewing and less space for my desk/computer though now that I wasn't working from home at my desk.
Here are a few "before" pictures. The first one shows the nice window I have, with my sewing space on the right of the picture. The big basket is overflow fabric, mending pile and "to do" list of projects. A big ole mess is what it is.
Better picture of the sewing desk itself. Underneath are my "scrap" pieces of fabric, which totally are out of control. That huge bin is full of just scrap pieces of woven material. That doesn't even show the knit scrap pieces!
Overflowing mess of a bookcase full of fabric. The bookcase was totally not suited to storing fabric.
And the left side of the desk with junk on the floor, a storage area for more "to do" projects, projects in progress and two wire drawers full of the knit scrap fabric. Believe it or not, the knit scrap was worse last month before I sewed some of it up.
We decided to get some better storage from IKEA to start with, and it progressed from there. I now have the following "after" room. First up, the sewing area itself. Not much changed there really, except some stuff was moved so it looks nicer. The shelves were there before up high. They hold my patterns in plastic tubs. I also have some elastic and notions stored up there. One cork board holds patterns in progress or that I use a lot, my measurement charts and other sewing things. The one on the right holds general purpose desk items.
Another view, shows the sewing desk plus you can see how the old storage unit from the left of my desk tucks underneath now. It holds the same stuff, no change there. You can also see the corner of the new white storage unit under the window.
The biggest change of course was the white storage unit. This is Expedit bookcase on its side under the window. This is sooooo awesome for fabric. The cubes are perfect width and depth for ruler folded fabric. The depth is 15 inches, which is perfect for the longer 60" wide fabric ruler folded. And two stacks fit perfectly side by side. So nice.
Another view, this time showing the larger Expedit shelving unit to the left of the window. I tucked my sewing books on top of that. And you can see the new large cutting table. The countertop was also IKEA, found in the "as is" section for $15! We put it on two IKEA kitchen carts we already owned that were in the kitchen. It worked out perfectly, very nice height. I stuck my cutting mat on there. The scissors are now held by an IKEA magnetic knife holder. No more hunting for scissors in a bin.
Last picture shows the cutting area. We reserved the back part of my monitor, keyboard and mouse. The laptop sits below on one of the shelves. We hauled out the old barstool from the garage. This had been a barstool from DH's grandfather, from his garage. It is a little bit too tall but the kids like it. With this setup now Zach can sit and browse with my computer or play a computer game, keeping me company while I cut or sew, and I'm right there to help him. The white shelving on the wall is also IKEA, from before. The magazine files are, yes, you guessed it, IKEA. They hold my Ottobre magazines, my Burda pattern magazines and back issues of Threads magazine and Sew News. I also store my lace, ribbon, trims, embroidery thread and other misc notions in boxes up there. The wicker basket has all my regular elastic, picot elastic and so forth.
So that is my sewing area. Anyone want to share a link to pics of theirs? :)